Today we have a longer cruise to Jekyll Island, so we awoke early and headed off a little after sunrise. The trip was about 70 miles, we wanted to be able to hit the beach and explore Jekyll, so arriving early was a must. We had several open ocean crossings and lots of big water, resulting in a bumpy trip. Saint Simons Sound was certainly the roughest water we encountered on our way to Jekyll Island. We also passed many bigger boats including a caravan of 3 boats about 60ft each. We wondered if they were delivering the boats somewhere or what their story was. Either way, bigger boats usually meaner bigger wakes so we slowed a lot to not get rocked.
We arrived at Jekyll Harbor Marina around lunchtime and immediately hopped off the boat to eat at its new Restaurant, Zachary’s Riverhouse. I had the most delicious shrimp salad sandwich as we overlooked the waterway and watched all the passing boats. We also noticed our 60ft friends, docked on the outside of the marina’s face dock, and its occupants heading off to what appeared to be an afternoon of golf. The marina was the second in two days that had a pool, unfortunately this one was closed. The marina also offers free golf carts (why is golf carting so much more fun than a car??) in 1.5 hour increments, so we headed out for some sand and beach instead of the pool.
The beach was not what we were expecting. It looked exactly like hot cocoa and similar in warmth. We were already hot from the days journey and we weren’t able to stay long in the beating sun.
On the way back to the boat, we stopped by the grocery store for some re-provisioning and necessities. We had another thunderstorm hit around dinnertime so we opted to have dinner on the boat, relax and plan for the next day’s journey.
We awoke to sunnier skies and started our 35 mile trek to Sunbury Crab Company Restaurant and Marina. A place known to be eclectic with a Key West vibe and amazing crabs that the family catches themselves. We had an easy trip meandering through smaller waterways with lots of marsh and pretty trees.
We exited the ICW and went a few miles west, up the Medway River, to Sunbury. As long as you follow your markers, its an easy journey. We got to Sunbury around noon and even though the restaurant was closed (we had MULTIPLE people tell us how good it was and we were so bummed) the family who owns it were still so welcoming and hospitable. They were definition of southern hospitality. Even though it was Memorial Day and they were officially closed, they invited us to the pool where we took a much needed dip and cooled off. We instantly felt like we had known this family for a long time and a quick internet search reveals that many people have similar experiences here.
We then went back to the boat for some chores (always things to do) and then showers. We had dinner on the boat since there are not any options nearby, except the Crab Company. We got invited back for an after dinner jam session which sounded fun. Everyone in the family seems to be so musically talented! We watched Peyton play in the pool again while we listened to the impromptu concert. I can’t say enough about how wonderful and accommodating this family was to us! We definitely plan to make a stop here again but we will make certain the restaurant is open!
We were on the outside of the dock in the ICW channel which meant we had no protection from boat wake and river current. As the rain got worse so did the wind and we quickly found ourselves rocking back and forth at uncomfortable lengths. Philip dashed out into the rain and onto the dock to add lines and fenders. We ended up with all four fenders out and six lines trying to hold us to the dock. As we sat there rocking, we noticed the outline of a police boat on a nearby dock that had been previously tied to portside now ran in a 45 degree angle from its previous position. It also looked like the twin engines on the boat were seconds away from smacking the dock. We took our spotlight and tried as best we could to assess the situation. We contemplated one of us going and trying to possibly resecure the boat but the walk to get there was pretty far in the pounding rain. We finally resorted to calling the emergency line for the marina and let them know what we thought had happened.
A few minutes later we see a flashlight beam headed towards the unsecured boat. After many minutes of the flashlight beam dancing, we finally see the boat slowly move back into its proper position. The dockmaster was even nice enough to call us back and let us know that the boat had indeed snapped a line and the stern was swinging freely around the dock. We were glad all boats seemed safe again and went back to watching the boat rock. It was a miserable sleepless night.
We originally planned to end up in Thunderbolt, GA today so it was nice to wake up and already be at our day’s destination! Thunderbolt is a small little marine town on the outskirts of Savannah. Thunderbolt Marina has a long standing tradition of bringing fresh, hot Krispy Kreme donuts to your boat every morning. They were amazingly delicious and still warm!
After pre-breakfast donuts, we took an Uber (one of many we took this trip…I could write a whole separate blog post on those adventures) to our favorite breakfast eatery in Savannah, B. Mathews. B. Mathews Eatery is on a quaint corner right in the heart of Savannah. They serve breakfast, lunch and dinner but we have only ever indulged in their breakfast. The food is always fresh, homemade and delicious. If you ever find yourself in Savannah, I highly recommend a stop! We then walked along historic River Street, popped in and out of some shops and walked along the waterfront. We had been denied a slip reservation at River Street Marketplace Docks, right on the Savannah River and right in town. We were told our boat was too small and it was too dangerous. Once, I saw the current in the river I was glad we were not staying there. (Little did I know how our night was going to be).
We strolled through the streets of Savannah with Forsyth Park in mind. With all the mossy oak trees and gorgeous old houses it’s so easy to get lost meandering through the streets. Peyton played at the park for a bit, then we ubered to lunch at The Wyld.
The Wyld was another must see on my list. They were a short distance off the ICW up the Herb River with a gorgeous long dock. We originally planned to boat there but since we were already off the boat and another rainstorm headed our way we decided against it. I found The Wyld a few years ago doing bachelorette party research and have wanted to go since. It met my requirements of outside seating (pretty much the entire restaurant is outside), water views, and good seafood. The staff were so friendly and the atmosphere was chill and authentic. I could have stayed all day. TS Alberto struck again though and it started to rain as we finished up lunch, so we headed back to the boat after a quick and soggy West Marine stop.
We enjoyed another dinner onboard and settled in for our nightly relaxation. TS Alberto again had other plans for us and we spent the next several hours riding a bucking bull called Drift Away. Stay tuned for the next post where we ride the waves, pounding rain and avoid a catastrophe from a boat that broke loose.
The next morning I awoke to Philip chatting with our boat neighbors. They were a sweet couple who had been up to Norfolk, VA and were now making their way back home to western Florida. They were planning to stay in Beaufort a few days as they were in no hurry to get back. They weren’t going to be able to cross the Okeechobee Waterway and Lake Okeechobee until mid June due to maintenance on the locks. They were a wealth of information and shared their knowledge of stopovers etc. with us. After getting fuel, we were off towards Daufuskie Island, a small, sleepy island just south of Hilton Head Island. Along the way, we planned a quick stop in Bluffton, SC for breakfast and some shopping. However, the beginning was slow going, shallow water, and many slow spots. We decided to skip Bluffton so we could get to Daufuskie earlier. Being Memorial Day, we heard they would be very busy and I wanted to make certain they had a spot for us. The only access to the island is by private boat or ferry and the docks tend to fill up before noon on holiday weekends. Golf carts are the predominant form of transportation on the island, though there are some cars and trucks as well. It was the one place I really wanted to explore during our trip and I really didn’t want to miss it!
The island is known to have “more turtles than humans” and was first settled by Indians who named it Daufuskie, meaning “point of an arrow” as the island is shaped like an arrowhead. Part of its charm are the old buildings, school houses and dirt roads. Nowadays, it seems one family is keeping the tradition alive and owns the only marina, only ferry service and only winery on island.
We made it to Freeport Marina and Old Daufuskie Crab Co. about 11am and it was already packed! There was boat after boat on the docks and some smaller boats were beginning to raft up on the face dock. Live music flowed down to the docks from the restaurant, inviting us up to listen. We eagerly obliged. After lunch, we rented a golf cart to explore the island further. Our first stop was, Daufuskie Island Rum Company, a local rum distillery in the islands interior. It sat in a small simple building overlooking a pond with many lily pads.
We then meandered thru the moss covered oaks to the Silver Dew Winery, which just so happened to have a grand re-opening that day! The winery had previously grown their own grapes but lost them all during Hurricane (by then Tropical Storm) Irma. The owner ended up buying grapes from Oregon and transported them all the way to Daufuskie Island. The winemaker then got to work in the tiny “wick building” of nearby Bloody Point Lighthouse. We sampled their Riesling which was the perfect amount of sweet and dry and strolled thru the vineyard and grounds towards the lighthouse.
Next, we made the short drive to the beach and put our feet in the water. Philip found a sand dollar for me in the surf while Peyton planted a “baby palm” (as she called it) at the edge of the waves. It was a perfect day and I can’t wait for a Daufuskie weekend in the future!
It was getting late into the afternoon at this point, so we hopped back on the boat and headed for Thunderbolt Marina, just outside of Savannah. We had originally hoped to stay at Daufuskie but with Memorial Day and only four overnight slips we had to keep moving. Thunderbolt was just a short trip south and we were soon settled into our spot on the face dock for the night. We had dinner on the boat and rested up for the next day of sightseeing in nearby Savannah!
We awoke to fair skies and lots of excitement to start our 9 day, 361 mile journey to Daytona Beach, FL. We were anticipating some rain, thanks to Tropical Storm Alberto, but we were hoping it wouldn’t be a washout. Even though we left later than we hoped, we were excited for the day’s run to Beaufort, SC. There are many little cuts, dredged channels connecting two waterways, on the trip to Beaufort. We quickly came to the first cut at Wappoo Creek, where we put the boat in the water earlier in the week. The next cut, Elliott Cut, is known for its swift current, especially during ebb tide. We traversed both cuts easily this time, thanks to slack tide. We then passed a house from a famous movie that I was sad to have missed on our last trip. It was a bit hard to see because of the trees, but it was definitely the house that Noah built for Allie in The Notebook. I love a good love story!! It is a private residence, however, so this was as close as I figured I would ever get.
We made it through 3 of the 4 cuts without trouble, on the 4th we came upon a dredging operation that looked like it was taking up the entire channel. I had just read in my Waterway Guide that this particular cut was known for constant shoaling, so while it was good to see a dredger, we had no idea what to do. We slowed to idle to assess the situation.
To make matters worse, we were in horse fly country. These awful, aggressive horse flies, that have a mean bite, started attacking us. I’m sure the dredge operators got a great laugh watching us dance and swat at the bugs while trying to figure out how we were going to get around them. The dredge is usually on a barge with a tug boat with many buoys surrounding it to support pipes and equipment used for excavation. In this case, the buoys appeared to take up all of the channel, except for about 10 feet right on shore.
After many bites, a few unsuccessful VHF hails, and much frustration, we decided to slowly approach and see if we could pass to the west. Thankful it was a rising tide, we went for it. You may not be able to tell in the picture but we kicked up some mud from the bottom. Welcome to the Lowcountry! Lets hope we don’t encounter another one soon. Just after we exited the cut we passed a north bound tug pulling what appeared to be very long pipes up the channel. He appeared to be headed in the direction of the dredger and I would have loved to have been a biting horse fly on the wall to see how he made it past!
After all our successful cuts, we crossed St. Helena Sound and entered the Coosaw River. We made our way towards Morgan Island, also known as Monkey Island, that I have written about previously. With more time and a dinghy, I was anxious to get closer to see some monkeys! We left the magenta line and traveled down a smaller river towards where I was hoping a monkey spotting would occur. Unfortunately, with a rain storm quickly approaching, we decided we shouldn’t travel any further down the creek. We quickly resumed our trip to Beaufort, hoping not to dock in the rain.
We made it to The Downtown Marina of Beaufort, missing the storm, and settled into our slip for the night. We grabbed showers at the marina before heading to dinner. With the Gullah Festival going on, there was no shortage of food choices. We opted to go to Plums, a restaurant along the beautiful waterfront with outdoor seating and good seafood. (All my requirements when eating in a coastal town). We took Peyton to the park and walked along the waterfront before heading back to the boat for planning and limin’.
We woke up and headed to breakfast in Charleston at Toast. It was then a short walk through the City Market, an open air shopping area with tables and tables of local vendors. Its a great place to buy gifts and souvenirs! After shopping, we met up with our recent Charleston transplant friends and enjoyed hearing all about their move to Charleston.
It’s so amazing to have people in our lives who we haven’t seen in many months, but can still connect with immediately. They told us all about Charleston living, building/buying a house and fishing. We then took a ride to Shem Creek and Red’s Ice House for lunch. Red’s is a dive bar type place with an amazing view of the creek. We enjoyed some seafood and then headed back to the boat for a few chores while it rained. (Thanks subtropical storm Alberto)
We worked up an appetite with our chores and then made our way, on the marina courtesy shuttle, to Fleet Landing. I have no idea if Fleet Landing makes the list of top notch seafood restaurants in Charleston (there are so many choices), but it is one of my all time favorites. Fleet Landing overlooks the water and literally, inside or out, you have an amazing view of the harbor. Their seafood is so fresh and delicious. We were fortunate that our Famulari’s friends texted us as we were headed to the restaurant, to see if we wanted to meet up for dinner. I’m so glad it worked out! It was so fun to see their 4 year old daughter and our 3 year old daughter become instant friends. If only it were that easy as adults!
I’m sure you are tired of hearing all about food and are ready for some boating. Well tomorrow we finally leave Charleston and head to Beaufort SC!
We are off again! Drift Away’s captain and crew are off on another ICW adventure. This trip, our route is from Charleston, SC to Daytona Beach, FL. We started our journey today by hopping in the truck and towing the boat 379 miles from our home in Virginia to Charleston, SC. With an 8,000 lbs. boat and a 3 year old what could go wrong? We managed to get lucky traveling, other than a MAJOR rain storm and a one hour stop for construction. Philip got to flaunt his man skills and helped another guy jump start his car while we waited for traffic to move again. Why do you stop traffic COMPLETELY for an hour for construction (paving)? And why didn’t google catch it?? Frustrating to say the least!
After going thru a HEAVY rainstorm, we made it to Charleston and Wappoo Cut Boat Ramp. Although the current can be tricky on the ramp, it is a large, wide put in with very nice docks and plenty of parking. A short boat ride to Charleston City Marina and we settled in on their mega dock with our 225ft+ friends. It was amazing to see the size of some of the yachts on the mega dock. We heard all about a 362 foot boat that had just left a few days prior. Thankfully we got a nice interior calm location and settled in for a two day stay.
We decided for dinner we would try a friend of ours brew pub and pizza place, Famulari’s on Folly Road. Their pizza was delicious but their beer (brewed on site) was even better. I highly recommend the skinny vanilla latte with your breakfast, lunch or dinner! It was great to get to visit with friends and catch up. We then took our tired selves home and went to bed.
Our final day. I have a lot of mixed emotions about today. We have had such an awesome incredibly life changing trip full of growth and learning. And fun!! I’m really really sad to see it come to an end but I’m so sick that I just can’t wait to be home. I feel as if our sickness has really overshadowed the last two days as we both just want to get home and be able to rest. Continue reading “ICW Northbound – MM 267 to 203 – Day 11”
